LA HABANA

HAVANA, CUBA (2017)

I visited Havana during the last week of Fidel Castro's reign. The day I returned home the news of his death broke and prior to this news, Fidel had not been seen in public in months. Rumors swirled that he had already died a few days before but his death was kept under wraps.

While in Havana, I spoke with many locals about life under Fidel — their day to day lives and what they think the future held for them. It became quickly apparent that speaking about the government was best avoided and the answers I received always skirted around the topics. Not surprising, under a regime where neighborhood watch programs still exist and citizens are incentivized to report residents who don’t tow the line.

I, as a tourist, experienced and saw Cuba from an entirely different lens. Due to an ongoing embargo dating back to the 1960’s, American’s are currently prohibited from visiting Cuba under normal circumstances. Contrived policies and roundabout “culture-promoting” visas however allow Americans and many other tourists to flow to the country annually. What we tourists are greeted with is a country stuck in time, primarily due to heavy US sanctions and repressive politics. While the charm of old Cuba is a souvenir we can bring back home, the reality of Cubans is different. Food supply is state rationed, internet is limited, the media is state run, and everyone watches everyone. While tourists can soak up the sun and enjoy meals and drinks with a rumba soundtrack, Cubans have to improvise and hustle to make ends meet.

Following Fidel’s death, his brother Raul Castro has taken the reigns. Despite having a new Castro brother at the helm, most Cubans do not anticipate a major shift in policy. Only time will tell what is ahead for a post Fidel era Cuba.